Changing the oil in a Dodge Caliber

Change the oil in your Dodge Caliber regularly will help to prolong the life of the engine and maintain high performance. When you buy the oil and filter replacement, double check your owner’s manual to be sure you will use an acceptable oil. Until 2010, Dodge recommends that oil replacement for the Dodge Caliber material meets the standards Chrysler MS-6395.

  1. Has all the tools and accessories you need, before changing the oil. Once the oil has drained you cannot start the car until the oil change is over.
  2. Find a safe place to perform an oil change. A location that is level with a firm surface would be ideal. Make sure there is sufficient space to work around the car.
  3. Activate the parking brake of the car. Make sure you have enough room to work under the vehicle.
  4. Place the supports for the car to be supported flat on the floor and grip the frame of the car. You may need to raise or lower the car for proper contact between the support and the frame.
  5. Locate the oil drain plug at the bottom of the engine.
  6. Place a container beneath the drain. Make sure the container is large enough to hold all the oil in the engine.
  7. Remove the drain plug with adjustable wrench. Let the oil drain until the flow stops.
  8. Replace the plug and tighten it with the wrench.
  9. Remove the container of used oil and place under the oil filter.
  10. Remove the old filter with the oil filter wrench. This filter is full of oil, so carefully place it in the container of used oil and leave it to be emptied.
  11. Place the new filter. And adjusted by hand clockwise. With filter wrench approximately 1/4 I set it back.
  12. Remove the oil container, tools, accessories and brackets used to jack under the car.
  13. Lower the car to the ground with the jack.
  14. Pop the hood of the car and locate the oil cap placed. It is located in the valve cover. Remove the oil cap.
  15. Check your owner’s manual to determine the exact amount of oil that needs your Dodge Caliber. Add the new oil using the funnel.
  16. Check the engine oil level. Make sure the oil level is within the recommended area.
  17. Discard the used oil and filter according to local laws.

How to reset the oil life in GM vehicles

General Motors has an indicator that informs the driver when the oil in the engine must be replaced. The indicator on the life span of the oil used factors such as style of driving, mileage accumulated and weather conditions. An indicator such as a warning light on the instrument panel or a warning screen on the driver information center will let the driver know the time when the oil should be changed. The proper functioning of the warning system of the oil life requires the system to reboot manually after each change it.

  1. The General Motors vehicles used this procedure for 2006 and newer. Turn the ignition to the ON position (turn) without starting the vehicle. Hold the ENTER button (enter) the driver information center for one second, while the message of the life of the oil is shown. Turn the key to OFF (off) once the message is displayed. Turn the car to check the oil change message is restored.
  2. General Motors vehicles used this procedure for 2005 and earlier. Turn the ignition to the ON position (turn) without starting the vehicle. Press and release the accelerator pedal completely three times in less than five seconds. Make sure the CHG OIL SOON message flashes twice. Turn the ignition key to the OFF position (off). Turn the vehicle to make sure the CHG OIL SOON message no longer appears. For some 1998-2002 vehicles of General Motors, press and hold the odometer button for 12 seconds until the message goes out oil change.
  3. Use this procedure to General Motors vehicles with a reset button: Turn the ignition to the ON position (on) without starting the vehicle. Hold the reset button on the end of the dashboard near the fuse box for five seconds. Turn the vehicle to make sure the oil change light has gone out.

Tips & Warnings

  • Consult the owner’s manual for specific information on restoring your system oil life.
  • Check the oil level in all fuel stations. The system oil life does not indicate when the oil level is low.

Changing the oil and filter marine engine

Like any abnormal sound in the engine of a car arouses the attention of the driver, a marine engine requires the full attention of his boss to give his all. Servicing the engine of our pleasure boat helps us to know all the particulars of the ship and part of the duties of a good pattern. All captain knows his boat like the back of his hand. A reason for this in we have been publishing some tips for boat maintenance and boat engine. In a previous post we saw the maintenance and change the water filter decanter. Now I play two key elements of any marine engine: oil lubrication and oil filter.

Oil selection

The choice of oil for the engine of our boat must not involve more difficulty in the manual of the machine to meet the manufacturer’s recommendation. In this respect it is not advisable to be brave. The voice of the manufacturer may or may not respond to subjective criteria regarding the brand, but always respond to technical criteria regarding the graduation of the oil.

The marine engine oil can be monogramed or multigame. The difference is that the monogramed oil has a very specific range of viscosity where the lubricant maintains its properties. Most commonly the multigame oil, based on the SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers), or Society of Automotive Engineers in the Spanish translation classification.

The viscosity of the lubricating oil of marine engines and influences their behavior is a function of temperature. A marked oil SAE 15W-40, means that it has a viscosity grade 40, which is not intended for use at 40 ° C. While the letter W indicates the viscosity at freezing temperatures.

How and when to change the oil

The oil change marine engine should meet the criteria of the engine manufacturer. However, the oil change must be forward when the engine runs at high speed for a long time and can be extended when normally navigate at low revs. Manufacturer criterion refers to a rate of operation next cruise ship.

To make the change engine oil must have a suction pump. The hose is provided that is inserted through the hole to house the dipstick level and proceed to emptying. All motors are advised that the machine has an average temperature for the fluid to flow more easily.

The extraction of oil used is the opportunity to examine the internal state of the engine. The presence of metallic waste is the alarm that parts that do not perform proper motion, being subjected to friction.

Note that the oil from the ship machine are subject to MARPOL regulations, and therefore must be deposited in the agreed locations, as discussed when talking about garbage and waste in the sea .

Changing the oil filter

Once emptied all, or almost, the lubricating oil it is time to proceed to change the oil filter. However, the filter change can alternate every two oil changes, provided a similar oil is used and have not appreciated metallic debris in dirty oil. The oil filter retains its panel’s metal splinters arising engine operation. To remove it is usually necessary to have an adjustable wrench to clamp the work piece diameter. Not so for the new place, it will be sufficient hand strength so that it is firmly in place.

The supply of oil filters for marine engines is broad. From block filters in which all elements are integrated into one piece, the filter cartridge where it is only necessary to change the removable cartridge.

The position of the filter in the engine is usually such that it allows full extract oil without causing the spill in the hold, which would result in the bottom cleaned. Also, this position allows the filter clean place full of new oil, avoiding gaps that may occur in the circuit.

It placed the filter, which is never to tighten with wrench for installation, proceed to complete the filling of the crankcase with new oil. Always having the caution that the level is between the minimum and maximum acceptable for the machine. Both excess and defect mechanical oil have dire consequences. The next step involves the launch engine for a few seconds, stop and check the oil level. It is preferable to rectify because we have fallen short, and we have passed.

Changing the oil in a Honda Accord

The Honda Accord usually has few problems during his life useful, and the maintenance regularly helps it last longer. The process to change the oil in a Honda Accord is simple, and you can easily find replacement filters in an auto shop. Here’s how to change the oil in a Honda Accord from 1996 to 2000.

  1. Raise your Honda Accord using a car jack. Then let it rest on the supports. If you do not have the supports, you can upload it to a ramp using a bracket to block the front wheels.
  2. Pop the hood and then remove the oil filler cap and dipstick. They can be found located on either side of the engine. The oil filler is usually above the rod.
  3. Have on hand your oil drip tray, the key filter, drain plug wrench, cleaning cloths, washer and new oil filter. Honda models require a 17 mm wrench to remove the drain plug. Slide under the car and locate the oil drain plug and filter. The cap is usually in the lower rear of the engine with the filter on the lower front section.
  4. Remove the drain plug with a 17 mm wrench. Get it out quickly and let the oil leak in the drip tray fall for about 10-15 minutes. Clean excess oil and replace the washer and the drain plug.
  5. Unscrew the old oil filter with the filter wrench and empty the oil in the drip tray. Place the filter in a plastic bag to get rid of him.
  6. Inspect the threads and make sure the rubber seal is not attached to the engine block. Cover the board with a little oil and replace the oil filter.
  7. Recharge your Accord with fresh oil and replace the rod. Accord models work better with a viscosity oil 5W-30 or 10W-30 depending on the temperature of your area. 5W is good for colder temperatures, while 10 W is good for very high temperatures. The Accord has approximately 4.5 quarts (4.5 liters) of oil.
  8. Turn on your car and let it run for a minute to create oil pressure. Check the dipstick. If the oil line is not complete, add a little more. Close the lid and lower the car.

Changing the engine oil pressure washer a Dealt

Change the oil in the engine of your washer Dealt is as important as doing in your vehicle. You may not have to be changed as soon but is a critical requirement maintenance. It is also important to change the oil pump pressure washer. Without the pump, this does not work, and do not serve. Check the levels of engine oil and the pump before each use and recharge it missing. For new washers, the oil should be changed after the first month, or 20 hours of use (the settlement period), and then every six months or 100 hours of use.

  1. Start the engine and let it warm up for the oil to flow more easily.
  2. Remove the lid and refill oil drain plug. This is located at the base of the engine block. The oil fill cap must be removed to reduce the vacuum effect caused by the oil flowing down the drain.
  3. Replace the drain plug when the oil tank is empty. Clean any remaining engine oil and washer.
  4. Fill the oil tank with 1.2 quarts (4.5 liters) of SAE 10W40 motor oil to a wider range of temperature.
  5. Replace the oil plug or rod after refilling.
  6. Loosen the oil plug from the pump. Place a collection container under the oil drain pump.
  7. Remove the drain plug from the pump and let it go by there the oil.
  8. Replace the drain plug and be sure to adjust safely.
  9. Remove the oil plug or rod pump and fill the oil tank with pump 14 fluid ounces (414 ml) of DP70 pump oil or SAE 30W non-detergent oil. The oil level should reach the point model of the glass window of the pump assembly.
  10. Replace the oil plug or pump rod.

Tips & Warnings

  • SAE 10W30 oil is recommended for general use.
  • Check oil level before each use and recur galosh if necessary using the rod provided as a guide.

Change the engine oil

As necessary as annoying. On a boat we cannot bend down and get under the crankcase as well do it in the car to remove the oil cap. We must therefore resort to other systems.

The hardest oil change on a boat is removing the old one. Very few boats which can be removed from the bottom of the crankcase, the oil drain plug as there is very little room to maneuver and put

A wrench to loosen the drain plug. Therefore the only solution is removed through a pump to absorb it.

There are some who say electric pumps to absorb the oil, but the two tested models purchased from commercial centers for the automotive no avail at all. The final instrument is the vacuum piston described in this article and can be found in specialty stores and will be amortized as soon as we made ​​three or four oil changes ourselves.

Warm up the engine

Before an oil change is necessary to heat the oil to decrease its viscosity and therefore becomes more “liquid”. You simply start the engine at idle for fifteen minutes.

The tube or cannula that will absorb the oil to be introduced through the tube holding the dipstick oil level. After removing the thin rod introduce the extraction tube is made ​​of a fairly rigid plastic for entering the hole in the rod, you will be directed to the bottom of the crankcase.

A brand with duct tape lets us know how much length cannula has entered the engine.

It is important to check that this stays down without breaking up.

Now we connect the other end of the tube to the extraction tank consisting of a cylinder in which a manual pump evacuates and thus ensures the absorption of the oil.

Remove the used oil

To empty the cylinder must hold their feet while we activate the plunger several times to remove air from the interior. We ensure the tightness of the connection of the cannula with the deposit to avoid losing vacuum.

We’ll see how the oil is going up slowly but continuously the tube and slowly tank is filled with old black oil. The absorption process can take 5 or 10 minutes.

The process is very clean since nothing is stain not be necessary to remove any plugs or use trays to collect the used oil. Everything is in the tank. But be careful to not fall off the tank, in which case it could open, which would result in a perfect mess!

Logically used oil must be emptied into a collecting tank and used oil should normally be available at any marina.

Change the oil filter

When changing the oil, it is not more change the filter should be replaced at least every two or three oil changes. Once the crankcase drain must unscrew the filter and for that there are some special keys that will embrace for unscrewing.

The first thing is to try to loosen it with your hands. To do seek a position to force us to do. We will hold it with both hands. The filter should be clean and dry our hands so that we cannot drain. In many cases this will yield to our strength and we can finish out without resort to any special key.

If it is impossible we should think of the tools designed to unscrew the filter. They have a plate shape and other are formed by a clamp or chain tightens and strangles the filter in order to unscrew. In extreme case we can puncture and pierce the filter with a couple of screwdrivers, to rotate, since once removed will be replaced by a new one. But remember the reference point of the filter and find a new one identical to the previous one before the old mess!

Nothing remove the filter, we must put a tray to collect the fine old will drip oil. In our case we had better seamlessly wrap a “Donuts”.

Half an hour later it will already be drained to the last drop of oil burned.

After removing the filter, we will put it in a plastic bag inside as much oil is dirty. Let the engine spit the rest of the oil used by the filter thread waiting for a half an hour it.

The new filter offers a rubber gasket to be smeared with clean oil before being threaded to the motor. Tighten the filter by hand so strong but without the use of tools. Not good tighten up to extreme limits.

Finally, we will use a funnel to get the gallons of oil that the manufacturer advises for your engine. Please watch the filling level with the dipstick and try not to spend the average level for putting too much oil in the crankcase is not advisable.

Change oil and filter

Manufacturers have a holding period recommended by the mark of 15,000 km, alternating a full review and a partial.

Partial only consist of changing filters, oil and grease, because of what is in this document is to perform an oil change and filter yourself at home and finally checking the 7.5 liters instead of 8 as we always throw at dealerships.

To make the change oil and filter need the following:

  • Oil – I persoanlly chose Castrol GTD Magnate 5W-40
  • Toyota original oil filter. Ref 9091530002 ($ 16.53 approx.)
  • Washer Carter Ref 9043012031 ($0.55 approx.).
  • Remove the filter wrench

Before starting the oil change operation, it should start the car for 10 minutes for the oil to reach a temperature, which will cause more fluid and exit more easily.

Once this is done, put the car on a flat surface and locate the drain plug from the sump.

It is situated in the center of the vehicle, just below the engine, and is easy to recognize because it has a few centimeters a piece of pipe that is where excessive oil would fall.

Place a container underneath with sufficient capacity to nearly 8 liters of oil, and with the help of a key loosen the screw gradually staying with the approximate strength for when we return to squeeze, first with the key to end the hand and catch it before it falls with the oil in the reservoir.

When finished dripping, the old washer is fully engaged in the crankcase. Do not think that is a metal and make force with a screwdriver and see as falling flash.

Another operation is to clean the screw impurities and especially mud may have stuck.

Clean the base of the casing and any possible oil slick well for us not deceive in the future and put the screw with a new washer, tightening it with the wrench, but be careful because we could pass the thread.

The next step is to change the oil filter

Locate in the left side (direction of travel) engine and foremost place a bowl on the floor more or less below the filter drops that may fall.

Helping key to remove filters, loosen the filter and unscrew by hand just careful not to force the screw.

We will see that some oil drops remaining in the filter, but the site where it is located is ready to collect large part of that oil.

Clean the surface thoroughly with paper towels to soak the oil and we screw the new filter, first by hand and if we cannot over with the key.

Your next step is to add the new oil.

As I said, we have used Castrol GTD Magnate 4W-40, which is packaged in bottles of 4L with a ruler on one side, with which you can easily know the amount you are adding.

Locate the top oil filler neck, unscrew on the cap and start the filling.

We’ll take 7.5 liters and we will check with the rod that is properly between the marks, neither above nor below.

We return to screw the cap firmly and have the car ready to run.

It is convenient to start it and walk around for at least 3 minutes for the oil to flow through the new filter.

Just start it you will turn the oil light but should go out in 1 second.

After these three minutes to check that there are no spills the lower screw or filter. If any will press more or see that is well screwed.

It is very useful thoroughly clean these areas with a cloth of any trace of oil, can confuse us in the future.

Oh, and most important of all, do not waste your used oil down the drain, carry it to a recycling center, nature will thank you.